Not too long ago, I was in Quantico, Virginia for a family event. Naturally, I tacked on sidetrips in the area (Washington, DC, Alexandria, Fredericksburg – to name a few). This post is about the weekend I squeezed into Baltimore. Prior to this visit, I had no knowledge of Baltimore whatsoever. 48 hours later, I think I had a very pleasant impression, and a good idea of what to see and do in that amount of time. Here’s what I found…
Hotel Recommendation
- Rachael’s Dowry Bed & Breakfast 637 Washington Blvd., Baltimore, MD 21230, (410) 752-0805, info@rachaelsdowrybedandbreakfast.com, https://www.rachaelsdowrybedandbreakfast.com/
To start, I did know that Baltimore was a significant player in both colonial and Civil War-era history. So, I knew chances were good I’d find lots of historical buildings – and even one we could stay in. That’s how I found Rachael’s Dowry B&B. I love finds like this – the house, built by 18th-century brick baron George Warner, has a history as much as the people who stayed there – George and Martha Washington stayed here in the 1790’s, and there are quite convincing arguments that the home was later a safehouse on the Underground Railway. In addition to WiFi and plenty of hangers in the closets and comfortable chairs for reading, the rooms are furnished with antiques, period touches, and every room has a fireplace – what can I say? I’m a sucker for wavy glass windows.
According to the Innkeeper/Owner herself, “[it’s] called Rachael’s Dowry because in 1667, Rachael Howard married Charles Ridgley. Her dowry included 300 acres of land. A big chunk of that land makes up the Ridgley’s Delight neighborhood today. The gentleman who actually restored the building and opened the B&B decided that it was time that Rachael got credit.” Personally, I think he should get some credit, too, for recognizing Rachael, as should Linda Smith, the current innkeeper/owner, who actually knew this detail of history. (Yet another reason I love to stay in historic B&B’s like Rachael’s Dowry.)
The Innkeeper/Owner, Linda Smith, was also very helpful with sights-to-see, driving tips, and restaurant recommendations. She obviously loves what she does and runs Rachael’s Dowry like a bijoux hotel. The location is excellent if one is planning to attend an Orioles game at Camden Yards (just steps away – no taxi or Uber required); for those of you like me who know nothing about most sports – the Orioles are the basball team of Baltimore, and Camden Yards is the stadium where they usually play. Rachael’s Dowry is also close to Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, where visitors can find the National Aquarium, floating museums made up of Historic Ships (including the Civil War-era USS Constellation), Fort McHenry, several more museums (the Maryland Science Center, and the Port Discovery Children’s Museum, to name two) and waterfront activities (water taxis, bay cruises, paddle boats, kayaks, or sailboats). And yes, it is safe to walk to the baseball field – Rachael’s Dowry is located in Ridgely’s Delight, a walkable and historic neighborhood in downtown Baltimore.
Restaurant Recommendations
- Nick’s Fish House, 2600 Insulator Drive Baltimore, MD 21230, (410)347-4123, https://nicksfishhouse.com/.
Our favorite innkeeper (see Rachael’s B&B, above) gave us this tip before we arrived in Baltimore. Our flight into Baltimore had been delayed so we barely made it to Nick’s Fish House before closing time; I love crab cakes so I sincerely hoped we’d been given a bonafide tip. The anticipation, coupled with rushing (successfully), meant we were primed to be satisfied; we were not disappointed. Rachael’s Dowry and Nick’s Fish House came through: their crab cakes and crab sauce and lump crab – it was all absolutely fresh. Delicious, too.
2. The Brewer’s Art, 1106 N Charles St, Baltimore, MD 21201, (410)547-6925, info@the brewersart.com, https://www.thebrewersart.com/.
Another historic building in Baltimore – The Brewer’s Art is a bistro-pub located in a renovated investment banker’s mansion – built to be fireproof in 1906, following the Great Baltimore Fire of 1904 that destroyed much of downtown Baltimore. Those old , elegant decorative touches are there – high ceilings, marble columns, a ceiling rose in the entry bar, a brass chandelier, and all the moulding you could dream of – not just crown moulding but pilasters, pediments, keystones, too. No wonder Esquire magazine voted this America’s best bar in 1996, and most recently in 2025, The Brewer’s Art was ranked #9 on USA Today’s 10 Best Readers’ Choice Awards for Best Brewpub. I’m sure there are those who’d say the distinction was in recognition of their Belgian ales; I like to think it was the atmosphere and design aesthetic that wowed everyone. I certainly liked it!
with honey mustard
bbq sauce, cheddar, bacon-brussels
sprout slaw
served with rosemary garlic fries
As a bistro-pub, The Brewer’s Art did not disappoint – I just wish I could have eaten a formal, five-course dinner here.
Things To Do
- Homewood Museum, 3400 N. Charles Street, Baltimore, MD 21218, 410-516-5589
museums@jhu.edu, https://museums.jhu.edu/homewood-museum/visitor-info/, hours Tuesday-Sunday, 11am-4pm.
Are you seeing a trend here? I love the decorative arts. So, naturally, I was drawn to the Homewood Museum on the Charles Village neighborhood-adjacent campus of Johns Hopkins University. Built in 1801 by Charles Carroll (the longest surviving signer of the Declaration of Independence) as a wedding gift to his son, it is a stunning example of Federal-period Palladian architecture. How could I resist a period home with all its’ paint colors, wall paper, mouldings, furniture, carpets, china patterns, window treatments, and wavy glass windows? I couldn’t, of course.
Self-guided, audio tours are available during opening hours, but just in case you’re running late and you call in to the museum and speak to their lead docent, there’s a very good chance you’ll get a personally-led tour by a resident graduate student who knows absolutely everything about all the decorative arts in Homewood Museum. At least, that’s what happened to me. She was fabulous and the tour was fascinating. This is a wonderful place to visit!
2. Fort McHenry, 2400 E Fort Ave, Baltimore, MD 21230, 410 962-4290 x250, https://www.nps.gov/fomc/contacts.htm, hours 9 am – 5 pm except New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas
Most of us know the basic story behind our national anthem – “The Star-Spangled Banner,” right? Francis Scott Key waited through the night to see if the American flag was still flying after a bombarding battle with the British; when the sun rose and he could make out the American flag, he was inspired to write the poem that was then set to music. Visiting Fort McHenry puts the whole story into context, with dramatic details and important facts that get overlooked.
To begin with, this wasn’t just any battle. In 1812, to preserve free trade and sailors’ rights, America had declared war on Britain – just 29 years after formally gaining their independence from Britain. This was Britain’s chance to alter the course of history and bring America back under its’ sovereignty. Two years later, the British burned the new nation’s capital – Washington, DC – and turned their sights on the port city of Baltimore – the young nation’s third largest city, a vital port, and an oupost, albeit small, for the standing army of the United States.
British soldiers were threatening the north-west part of the city and needed the British Navy to attack the city-port from the south-east. From a British truce ship where he was trying to negotiate the release of an American prisoner, this was the battle that Francis Scott Key witnessed and was so moved to see the American flag (all 30 ft x 40 ft) still flying after 25 hours of bombardment by bombs and rockets launched by the most powerful navy in the world. No wonder he was so moved.
Surprisingly, that battle was the last time Fort McHenry saw real action; it was on alert during the Civil War but never engaged in any actual fighting. It did house political prisoners during the Civil War – pro-secessionists who were private citizens, in addition to soldiers. During World War I, Fort McHenry became a massive hospital, with 100 buildings and 3,000 beds; this was probably the busiest it would ever be. During World War II, Fort McHenry became a training site for the US Coast Guard. And after the end of the war, in 1945, Fort McHenry returned to the National Park Service, where it is designated an “Historic Shrine.”
Walking around the ramparts and grassy knolls, it’s hard to believe that such pivotal happenings occurred there. It’s fresh and green and peaceful. It’s quite humbling, actually.
3. National Aquarium, 501 E. Pratt Street, Baltimore, MD 21202, 410-576-3800, https://aqua.formstack.com/forms/contact_us, https://aqua.org, hours generally 9 am – 6 pm with last Aquarium entry 60 mins before closing
The original National Aquarium was supposed to be in Washington, DC. But when funding fell short, it occurred to our duly-elected officials that the Aquarium in Baltimore would do just as well. So the Baltimore Aquarium became the National Aquarium.
To be honest, I have mixed feelings about aquariums… zoos, too. If I were an animal or fish, I would not want to be cooped up in a defined, unyielding space. On the other hand, aquariums and zoos allow us to learn about these other creatures so that hopefully, we respect them in/and their natural habitat. So, I could not blame the dolphins for not showing themselves in their tank with the city view. But the National Aquarium performs other conservation efforts, including habitat restoration, animal rescue work and sustainable business practices. So, perhaps there is a place for aquariums (and zoos).
Getting off my soapbox, I have to admit the tropical birds in the aviary were stunning.
And the Atlantic puffins were darling.
I enjoyed my time in Baltimore – I enjoyed everything I saw (and ate!). But I feel that I barely scratched the surface – I’m certain there are many, many more historical buildings and sights to explore. If you do happen to go, and you discover some of these gems, please let me know! I’ll take any excuse to hop on a plane or live out of a hotel for a few days!
Leave a Reply